Givenchy menswear SS17 pre-collection
While the game of musical chairs that has beset many other famed fashion houses over the past months continues, Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci – who has been at the creative helm since 2005- shows no signs of fleeing the brand that he turned around after some challenging years in the wilderness. It’s probably a mutually beneficial love affair: Givenchy appointed Tisci as Creative Director in an unprecedented move for a designer who had effectively only ever shown one collection of his own, albeit it one that garnered near hysterical accolades.
Since 2008, he also took up control of the maison’s menswear and brought some of that dark, twisted sexiness that had made his womenswear such a hit with the ladies, to this day racking up the red carpet and paparazzi scores with everyone from Cate Blanchett and Beyoncé to Old Money and rising starlets. Tisci pulled Givenchy out of rut, a preceding period where very different creative directors had been at loggerheads with the management and no one really seemed to know what Givenchy’s male future might literally look like.
Riccardo Tsici suffers no such uncertainty. His menswear has seen Givenchy avoid pandering to the bottom line with safe, sartorial silhouettes and, instead, push the boundaries. It’s not that those classics of male clothing aren’t in there. In fact, almost every collection since his arrival has included what could only be described as signature Italian tailoring. But they have also foregrounded the more avant-garde edge of men’s fashion. With everything from psychedelic Manga-inspired streetwear looks to the men-in-dresses garments so beloved of fashionista boys, it’s often difficult to get a grasp on exactly what the essence of his collections is. But, who cares? Each collection is a bit like going to a party where there are a lot of people with whom you share nothing in common yet end up having a great time. Classic and classically perverse. Butch yet metrosexual. Bankers rubbing shoulders with punks. It’s all in there.
We still have to get through another winter before we can rush out to buy his amazing SS17 pre-collection complete with what can only be described as Art Deco samurai chic mixed with trackies. But, hey, at least that means mean still have time to go out soon and acquire some of the amazing pieces in his AW16 pre-collection, a collection designed as a complete wardrobe that includes both faded denim casual wear and far tauter, tailored pieces such as trousers, jackets and coats. Not that these are nearly as traditional as they appear at first glance, often featuring interesting detailing on the pockets or the monkey motif hems – just what is it with Riccardo and monkeys?
In this collection his beloved Gothic and punk sensibilities take the use of studs in new directions, from Rhinestone Cowboy evening wear to unexpected detailing on corn-fed farm boy denim. Yes, you’re allowed to say that it looks a bit like something a porn star would wear. The fact that Riccardo Tisci doesn’t say it is that he doesn’t need to. He knows you already thought it. And, frankly, though most men would never admit it, most fancy being an object of desire from time to time.