Casely-Hayford SS16 collection
Casely-Hayford is a rare collaboration in the contemporary fashion world outside of dynastic heritage brands: that of father and son. Run by Charlie Casely-Hayford and his renowned dad Joe, the brand is based in a philosophy of combining quintessentially British sartorial traditions with those of anarchy; the vibrant expression of street fashion and DIY subcultures.
Joe Casely-Hayford – now OBE– rose to prominence at the dawn of the 1990’s, one of the first generation of British designers to consolidate all of the styles and stances of the vibrant UK underground scene of the late 1980’s with the traditions of British tailoring and contemporary fashion. His much sought after clothes adorned the likes The Clash and U2 and his men’s and women’s collections were advocated by the hippest fashion titles.
Later, Joe Casely-Heyford returned to his tailoring roots, as Creative Director for the traditional British tailoring house of Gieves & Hawkes, and was highly praised for his re-positioning of the brand for the realities of the twenty-first century.
Then, less than a decade ago, Joe joined forces with his son Charlie to launch the Casely-Hayford range of menswear. Staying strong to the roots of a clever combination of anarchic streetwear and traditional sartorial elegance, their designs were immediately snapped up by hip outlets such as Dover Street Market, Colette and a whole swathe of top Japanese stores.
The SS16 menswear collection sees the father and son duo sticking to a bold palette of blocks of bright colour framed by neutral – both dark and light– in traditional tailoring tones, here and there accentuated with the striking textiles that have always been something of a signature for Joe.
Silhouettes incorporate set pieces drawn from traditional tailoring –with an emphasis on soft, comfortably fitting garments– mixed with ethnic influences that come through especially in the layering and accent use of pattern. Streetwear looks, subculture –such as Seattle grunge moments– and long, over-sized coats over loose trousers reminiscent of the style of the Japanese designers that rose to prominence in the 1980’s all come together very nicely. A particular coup is the reworking of the biker jacket as something between a parka and a coat.
Maybe not to everyone’s taste, but this is a great collection if you want to pull off the rare feat of striking a commanding pose and being comfortable with clothes that have been carefully thought through to boot.