Tramando SS16 ‘Eclipse’ collection
Martin Churba took an unusual route to his position as Argentina’s pre-eminent fashion designer at home and abroad. He first mastered textiles, researching materials, developing new methods of deploying familiar fabrics and new approaches to producing unique luxury materials. Needless to say, this flair for the most basic building blocks of good fashion is in the DNA of the various lines he now designs for his Tramando label, whether the chic and slick prêt a porter line or the ‘art couture’ where innovative use of bespoke textiles is really pushed to the limit.
As usual, the SS16 ‘Eclipse’ prêt a porter collection sees a strongly sculptural approach to working with fabric. Chubra’s more experimental textile art projects always inform his design in numerous ways. But his approach to prêt a porter is all about taking the lessons learned from such intensive research and applying them to sexy, wearable fashion. The current collection is no exception.
It’s expansive and offers something for most women. Loose, draped trousers in the incoming wider silhouette, often paired with layered tops or tunics, offer something for those who like their luxury with a casual feel. No less comfortable are the slinky trouser combinations with a remake of Studio 54 decadence about them. And there’s even numerous options for women who need a professional power wardrobe, but don’t want to be bored, such as the unfortunately named, but very beautiful, Wino Dress.
Tramando’s ready-to-wear collections are a certain bet if you’re after that ‘statement’ dress and ‘Eclipse’ doesn’t disappoint. The options range from the clingy and revealing to show off that perfect figure to beautifully draped, layered dresses that might hide the lack of it. Chubra has never been a designer to favour any particular length or silhouette in his collections, so why would he start now? Rather, his shapes and forms seem to grow out of what the fabric itself demands.
Defining black and expanding white hold a range of soft pastel and strong colour details or intricate patterns in check, bringing balance without sacrificing dramatic impact. Leather(like) or shimmering finishes to the intricately constructed textiles give every one of his outfits a complexity and that special timeless quality simply because they are so not like anything else without being excessive or attention-seeking in the wrong way.
Fortunately, for those who see these beautiful clothes and want them but are not conveniently located near to Tramando’s stronghold of Argentina, the brand sells online and has become something of a cult that is now stocked in a growing number of select stores in Japan, Spain, France and Belgium, amongst other countries. And, if you just happen to be in Dubai, why not go wild in Tramando’s massive flagship store that opened there barely a year ago.